United Arab Emirates

When it's getting cold and wet in Europe, it's the right time to travel to the UAE. So I packed my stuff in January 2001 and went to the county of men in nightgowns (for the 3rd time already).

The Emirates have been built in the last 30 years - or rather the keep being built for 30 years, because construction work never seems to stop! Since my last visit to Abu Dhabi and Dubai five years ago, a lot has changed there. In former times, the Jebel Ali Hotel lay far off from the city - today, the industrial and commercial zone of Dubai reaches there and even beyond. The corniche of Abu Dhabi has been enlarged and is now twice as wide as before. Around the city the state has built new settlements which are free for the locals (who only make about 20 % of the population).

The UAE are famous for shopping - but unfortunately not as cheap as they used to be. The dirham is linked to the US dollar - so during my visit everything was as expensive as in Switzerland. The only few places where one can buy cheap stuff are Indian shops. But there are dozens of shopping malls of western standard where you can go for window-shopping. Most well-known brands are available - and even IKEA is there!

Of course there are some smaller souks left where one can walk through little streets and discover curiosities - like henna that seems to sell better if scenes from "Titanic" are printed on the packing.

So it might be better after all to leave all this behind and go to the desert. While some years ago, one was out in the dunes quite soon, it takes a little longer now. To both sides of the streets there are new fields. Land is taken from the desert and watered to use it for agriculture. It's not as green as in Switzerland but the effort is nevertheless impressing.

I booked one of those standard desert safaris that most tour operators offer (it's worth to compare prices): We started with dune bashing, which means that the jeep will drive up a dune and then go down on the other side with full speed to be able to get up the next one. Kind of a rollercoaster.

	Then we arrived at the desert camp where tents and a large even surface are waiting. During preparation of dinner the tourists from Canada, India and Switzerland amuse themselves with camel rides and sandboarding.
When the sun goes down, it is best to sit down in a distance and enjoy the special atmosphere.

After this it quickly gets cooler (don't forget your jacket!) and the program continues with an oriental dancer and a Lebanese buffet. Finally there is an opportunity to take a look at the impressing night sky in the desert.

If you prefer to watch a dancer without sand in your shoes, there are many opportunities. Most of the large hotels offer a dance show, often in a Lebanese restaurant which - thanks to air-conditioning - is nearly as cold as the desert at night! And don't forget: raks sharki is an imported entertainment and has nothing to do with the local dances. But it is very difficult to see native dances (all of them group dances). It's mostly the men who dance, using sabres or rifles as accessories.

Women can only be seen dancing during national holidays and weddings. I had to take pictures of paintings in the cultural centre of Abu Dhabi.

People in the UAE don't call the women's dances "Saudi" or "Khaliji". On is at the Kahlij - the Gulf - so strictly speaking all the local dances are Khaliji: from the Gulf region. The locals call the women's dance "Na'ashat".

Dresses for this dance can only be bought in the souk at Sharjah. I don't have an address, but the shop (ground floor) has a dress in the window. I always purchased large quantities and was able to lower the price. Don't even think about buying a dress for oriental dance! The few that I saw were so bad that they are not worth a thought. But you can buy materials for doing your own.

If you are interested in "old stones" there is not much to see. Everything that's older than 50 years is very antique. In Dubai there is a small museum that has been arranged with great care. It shows scenes from the time when the people on the Gulf coast were pearl divers and lived in small wooden houses.
	Today skyscrapers shape the city like here at the Dubai creek.
Beside all the large glass palaces, the small mosques look rather modest like this one in Abu Dhabi. But the Islam is very important. Apart of the locals, there are many immigrants from the Middle East, Pakistan, Afghanistan etc. Tourists should dress "decently". You don't have to cover your head but it is advisable to protect yourself against the sun.

After all the excitements it is time for a day by the sea. No problem, the UAE have wonderful clean beaches and pools. In January the sea was too could though and there was a strong wind. In December the temperatures were much more pleasant.

Generally I would recommend to travel to Dubai. It has more charm than Abu Dhabi - if this is possible with all the new skyscrapers - and there is more entertainment and diversity, especially when it comes to nightlife.

If you are interested in the Middle East but don't like dirt and don't want to be with comfort, the United Arab Emirates are for you. And if all the glitter gets on your nerves, you can still escape to the desert!